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Brunei: The Kingdom of Gold and Green

By eSIMVu Team •
January 29, 2026 • 5 min read • Destination Insights

Brunei

A photo of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in Brunei's capital, Bandar Seri Begawan.

Source: A photo of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in Brunei's capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Photo: InnovAero

Brunei Darussalam is a country of paradoxes. It is a tiny nation on the island of Borneo, wedged between two Malaysian states, yet it is one of the richest countries in the world per capita. It is a place where you can see a mosque dome made of pure gold in the morning and walk through a pristine, untouched rainforest in the afternoon.

Often jokingly referred to as the "Shellfare State" due to its massive oil wealth, Brunei is frequently overlooked by travelers rushing to the beaches of Thailand or the temples of Bali. But for those who stop here, Brunei offers a rare glimpse into a strictly Islamic, fabulously wealthy, and deeply peaceful monarchy.

If you are curious about the "Abode of Peace," here is your guide to the sultanate.

1. The Mosques: Opulence Overload

You cannot visit Brunei without visiting its mosques. They are not just places of worship; they are architectural flexes.

  • Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque: Located in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), this is often cited as the most beautiful mosque in the Asia Pacific. Built in a lagoon, its main dome is covered in pure gold. It looks like a mirage floating on water.
  • Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque: This is the current Sultan’s mosque. It is massive, featuring 29 golden domes (to honor the 29th Sultan). The interior is breathtaking—woven carpets from Saudi Arabia, granite from Shanghai, and crystal chandeliers from England. It is a masterclass in "no expense spared."

2. Kampong Ayer: The Venice of the East

Just across the river from the modern city center lies Kampong Ayer, the world’s largest water village.

  • The Reality: This isn't a slum; it’s a fully functioning historic district where 30,000 people live in houses built on stilts over the Brunei River. They have schools, police stations, and mosques—all on stilts.
  • The Tour: Take a water taxi (a small speed boat) for about $1 BND to cross over. Walking the wooden boardwalks offers a fascinating contrast to the sterile, marble-paved streets of the capital. It feels alive, chaotic, and authentic.

3. Ulu Temburong: The Green Jewel

Because Brunei found oil offshore, it didn't need to cut down its forests for timber or palm oil plantations. As a result, roughly 70% of the country is covered in virgin rainforest.

  • The Canopy Walk: To reach Ulu Temburong National Park, you take a thrilling longboat ride upriver. The highlight is the canopy walk—a steel structure rising 60 meters above the forest floor. You are literally walking among the treetops, looking out over an endless sea of green. It is one of the best-preserved ecosystems in Borneo.
  • Ulu-Temburong- a vast green forest with a suspended bridge down the centre.
  • Source- Borneo Adventure

4. The Night Markets

  • The Night Market: Bruneians go to the Gadong Night Market. It is a smoke-filled, bustling food heaven.
  • What to Eat: Try Ambuyat, the national dish. It is a sticky, starchy substance made from the sago palm, eaten with a bamboo fork (chandas) and dipped into spicy, sour sauces. It’s an acquired taste, but essential for the experience. For something safer, grab a skewer of "Satay" or "Nasi Katok" (rice and fried chicken with sambal), which usually costs just $1 BND.

5. Practical Tips: Survival in the Sultanate

The Transport Challenge Here is the biggest shock for visitors: There are almost no taxis. Brunei has a very high car ownership rate, so public transport is scarce, and flagging a taxi on the street is virtually impossible.

  • The Solution: You must use Dart, the local version of Uber/Grab. It is the only reliable way to get around if you don't rent a car.

The Connectivity Necessity Because you are reliant on an app (Dart) to leave the airport or get to the mosque, having a working phone is not a luxury; it is a necessity.

  • The Roaming Trap: Brunei is often excluded from standard "Southeast Asia" roaming packages offered by Western carriers, or the rates are sky-high.
  • The Fix: To ensure you aren't stranded at the arrival gate, purchase an eSIM data plan before you fly.
  • Getting a physical SIM card at the airport can be slow and requires passport registration. An eSIM allows you to connect to local networks (like DST or Progresif) immediately. You can book your Dart ride the second you clear customs, avoiding the panic of being stuck in a city without cabs.

Money

  • Currency: The Brunei Dollar (BND).
  • The Singapore Connection: Uniquely, the Brunei Dollar is pegged 1:1 to the Singapore Dollar. Singapore Dollars are accepted everywhere in Brunei. If you have leftover cash from a trip to Singapore, you can spend it here freely.

Friday Shutdown On Fridays, between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM, by law, everything closes for Friday prayers. Shops, restaurants, and offices shut their doors. Plan your lunch accordingly—eat before noon!

Why Go Now?

Brunei is quiet. It doesn't have the chaos of Vietnam or the traffic of Jakarta. It is clean, safe, and manicured. It offers a fascinating look at a wealthy Islamic monarchy that operates differently from the rest of the world. It’s a place to slow down, eat well, and marvel at the gold.